Is there such a thing as too much barrel distortion? This is the first time that I have really put to the test my 12-24 Nikkor by spending two dedicated hours with it. I am just curious because if there is, then I might have to exchange this lens for a better copy. Here are some samples.

At 12mm
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a397/docnap/bay.jpg

At 24mm
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a397/docnap/dig3.jpg

TIA.

Hi there Nap. Looking at the pics you posted... IMO They look normal 12-24 images to me... :) Acceptable barrel distortion coming from an ultra-wide angle lens.

Is there such a thing as too much barrel distortion? This is the first time that I have really put to the test my 12-24 Nikkor by spending two dedicated hours with it. I am just curious because if there is, then I might have to exchange this lens for a better copy.

TIA.
There is Nap. The common way to test this is to shoot a brick wall with your camera's back parallel to the target. Then examine how the bricks line up. If they show a figure representing a barrel, then there you go.

Its hard to avoid barreling with second tier ultra-wide angle lenses due to the price points. However, there are highly corrected lenses and they cost an arm and a leg. The 21mm Contax Distagon is legendary in this sense and not one modern lens has come close to this. This is a 30-year old manual focus lens which goes for a minimum of $4k, if you can find one decent for sale.

As for your sample, I observed keystoning common with ultra wides. Its acceptability will depend on your application. It is now becoming acceptable in photo journ shots of people (so long as you don't place them near the edges else their heads gets drawn like watermelons). For architectural shots, any type of linear "distortion" is a no-no.

What I suggest to push your photographic skills forward is to learn to "draw" with that lens, i.e., shoots pictures with ultra-wides that have a "normal" perspective. I have seen pros use the 17mm on a full frame camera for small interiors where you hardly notice the distortion. Or the same lens on a food shot and it felt like it was taken with a 35mm lens. You may find consulting with sketch artists useful.

For now, you may find photoshop a helpful friend. The distort tool is useful in fixing these type of distortions. :)

http://static.flickr.com/81/232307111_28568220c3.jpg

Fixed keystoning, color balanced, and adjusted contrast ;-)

Thanks for the responses guys. Wow Arnell, how I wish I could elevate my post-processing skills.

Nap,

Here's food for thought.

You may have the skills to competently use photoshop. But if you don't have the "eye" to guide you to what makes a picture, then all is for naught. Hence, I suggest developing the your eye and photographic skills first. If you know what you're doing, it is possible to get the picture right with minimal post processing. IMV, too much PS is more a stop-gap measure due to capture errors and fuzzy concepts.

Of course, I'm assuming your aim is to be a better photographer rather than a digital artist. :)

Thanks for the responses guys. Wow Arnell, how I wish I could elevate my post-processing skills.

Hi Nap,

Not that I'm an expert at PP by any means, but a good book on Photoshop really helps. You just have to find some time to sit down and "do it".

@Arnell, excellent comments! Thanks for sharing.

regards.

this thread is a god-send. i have a sigma 10-20mm and at it's widest setting, the barrel distortion is almost funny-house-like, specially at the edges. However, paying keen attention to perspectives really help as a slight angular mis-alignment leads to exaggerated lines. I tried shooting our condo unit at rockwell earlier using the 10-20mm and it just killed me. much too tough, and i was better off using the 18-200mm VR.

this thread is a god-send. i have a sigma 10-20mm and at it's widest setting, the barrel distortion is almost funny-house-like, specially at the edges. However, paying keen attention to perspectives really help as a slight angular mis-alignment leads to exaggerated lines. I tried shooting our condo unit at rockwell earlier using the 10-20mm and it just killed me. much too tough, and i was better off using the 18-200mm VR.

Yup that's why there are other specialized lenses for this kind of work... The problem with the current line up is that they are not that wide in DX format cameras... :)

Nap, don't worry... You'll be fine. Just work at it at your own pace. There are alot of other options that can be used other than photoshop in post processing your images... Choose the right application for the job and what suits your workflow. :)

@nap

definitely not a bad copy...

@arnell

excuse my ignorance but what is keystoning?

@arnell

excuse my ignorance but what is keystoning?

http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=keystoning

One should exercise resourcefulness and creativity. Photography requires more sweat than that. ;-)

excuse my ignorance but what is keystoning?

:) Dindin, Keystoning is a type of distortion that happens when you point a camera facing upwards on a vertical surface... A rectangular surface or structure whose upper and lower segments which suppose to appear congruent--now appears distorted and ressembles that of an inverted triangle with a flat bottom surface. Another definition is that it is an effect of converging verticals. Wherein a perfect example would be like if you use a projector to project a square image on a wall, you'll see an accurate square shape; which has all sides parallel. But if you try to tilt the projector upwards, the square will turn into a trapezoid shape which has a wider top than the base. Hope this helps. :Grin: