I have had my K100D for approximately 1 1/2 weeks now, and I am slowly learning the ropes... something weird happened the other day though, while I was using manual lenses on the K100.

The AE-L button during manual mode is auto metering right? When I was using it, the shutter suddenly, well, shut and a digital preview of a shot appeared on the screen. The first time this happened I thought I might have accidentally pulled the digital preview lever, but when it happened a second time, I was sure my finger was nowhere near the shutter button or the lever... is this normal?

Also, when using my manual lenses, the time it takes for the image to appear is significantly longer than when using my kit lens... is the problem here with my lens? Thanks!

Hello there Franz. I'm still using the Ds so I'm not sure if my suggestion can help. Have you checked your menu settings (i.e. allow aperture setting from aperture ring?). What particular lens are you using?

FWIW, I also frequent other forums and this is the first I've heard of someone having this problem.
Nols

Nols,

My settings are all in order, I think it was Willy who told me what settings to use when I was asking how to make my old lenses to work... well, now they work save for the glitches I mentioned... is it natural to wait around 5 secs for a picture to appear in the LCD after taking one using manual lens? Sometimes even using the kit lens, the picture takes about 4-5 seconds before appearing... the lens that I was using that time was a Pentax-M 1:2 50mm lens...

Franz

Hi Franz, the measured timing for record review in the K100D is 1.8 sec for a branded 133x SD card. I think what you are experiencing is Dark Frame Noise Reduction where the camera takes an extra exposure to cancel out the noise during long exposures. I think all DSLRs do this if you have noise reduction turned on for long exposures.

Roger, after the shutter has shut and reopened? Well, I hope this is just it... but what about the glitch where a digital preview is taken when I press the AE-L button? Or is this normal too? It isn't mentioned in the manual eh...

I believe NR only steps in for extended exposures. The AE-L button triggering the shutter is definitely not normal. Your best bet is to bring it back to the supplier. Did you get it from Sanly's?
Nols

@noli: yeah, that's what I was thinking, to bring it back... I bought mine at the Pentax showroom in Megamall... will they have to see the glitch if I bring it back? Cause it just happens, sometimes the AE-L button works fine, sometimes it doesn't... baka mapahiya ako if when I bring it back, the AE-L button works fine bigla...:)

Can't hurt to try Franz. Most probably there is a short somewhere around the shutter assembly (AE-L button is very near). I think I recall reading some problems with the shutter over at dpreview. One solution was to remove the plastic thingy that surrounds the shutter and clean with a soft brush. On second thought huwag na lang - this might void your warranty.

Give us an update how this turns out with Sanly's. Good luck!
Nols

@noli: right! I'll bring the camera later or tomorrow maybe to have it checked... sana naman nothing serious... thanks nols!

Roger, after the shutter has shut and reopened? Well, I hope this is just it... but what about the glitch where a digital preview is taken when I press the AE-L button? Or is this normal too? It isn't mentioned in the manual eh...

Yup, I think that's how Dark Frame NR works: a second exposure is taken with the shutter closed. In cameras that don't have this feature, you can perform the noise reduction manually by taking a 2nd exposure with the lens cap covering the lens. Then you load the original image and the black image into a software program that does the subtraction. Most new cameras have it built-in now, and you can turn it off in the custom menu if you prefer to use more sophisticated NR software in post-processing.

But as Noli mentioned, it only activates in long exposures, i.e. when shutter speed exceeds 1 sec. Based on the 4-5 sec delay that's about right = 1 sec exposure + 1 sec dark frame + 1.8 sec record review lag.

Problem is, even when my shutter speed is 1/150 or higher, there's a 4-5 second delay after I take the shot and before the image appears in the screen...

Oh, that's certainly unexpected. Hope Sanly takes care of it.

I wonder if it's the SD card? I have a 60x Apacer card that I got along with my (used) K10. But I never used it on the K10 because when I tried it on my P&S it felt really slow. But it was slow every time, not intermittent. I think there's an LED that lights up when the camera is writing to the memory card so you can check if it's the writing that's taking a long time.

Franz try a full reset of the settings in the customs menu, then try it with a n AF lens then do the setting for MF lens & try again.

@Roger: The SD card that I am using is the 1 GB packaged with the camera. Well, the LED lights up for about 3 seconds after a lull of about 2 seconds... I hope it's just the card... I'll try to reformat it then try again... but I will bring my camera to Megamall tomorrow for the AE-L button glitch...

@Willy: Will do that as soon as I get home!

so what's the result Franz?

I reformatted my SD card and things are a little better but I still have a few concerns though... Is it normal to experience slowdown if say the mem stick is half full? Or when shooting RAW, the read time is slower?

Is it normal also to do what I do, to always leave a lot of space on my memory card for speed? This means always transferring images to the computer everytime a hundred or so shots have been taken na, kasi bumabagal read time ng card?

Oh, and about the AE-L button thing, I did what you said Willy, and it never happened again. Though I still called Sanly and told them about my problem. They said to bring it to Cubao and they'll look at it, maybe some glitch in the software daw... if not, kung mechanical ang problema, yari ako... I'll be without a camera for a while nun!

BTW, My K100D's firmware is 1.0 pa rin eh, is this an issue? Should I update the FW or let Sanly check my camera first before doing so? Thanks again!

I reformatted my SD card and things are a little better but I still have a few concerns though... Is it normal to experience slowdown if say the mem stick is half full? Or when shooting RAW, the read time is slower?

Is it normal also to do what I do, to always leave a lot of space on my memory card for speed? This means always transferring images to the computer everytime a hundred or so shots have been taken na, kasi bumabagal read time ng card?

It is not normal to experience slowdown if the memory card is half full or near full. Read speed (how fast the card allows your camera to read) is constant regardless if it was RAW or JPEG, but since you have a large file, read time takes longer.

No its not normal to leave a lot of space for the memory card for speed. Since a memory card has no moving parts, unlike a hard drive, there is no need for you to leave a little bit of space.

@nino: you think the problem lies with my camera? whats the normal read speed like say, after taking a shot, the time it takes for the image to appear in the LCD? cause maybe what I'm experiencing is normal, I just expected faster performance hehe...

@nino: you think the problem lies with my camera? whats the normal read speed like say, after taking a shot, the time it takes for the image to appear in the LCD? cause maybe what I'm experiencing is normal, I just expected faster performance hehe...

Hi Franz,

It depends from camera to camera, if you are shooting raw, jpeg, what resolution are you shooting in. So many factors that can influence how fast it displays on your LCD.

For instance, my Canon EOS 10D displays much much slower than my EOS 1DM2N even using the same memory card (Kingston Ultimate or Sandisk Extermes). Although the 10D displays faster in JPEG, it is still no match to the 1DM2N.

I suggest that you talk to another forum member who has the same camera as yours and compare. It might be a trait of your camera model, it might be also unique only to your camera.

And what card are you using again?

@nino: Oh ok... you have a point... resolution in Jpeg is the highest btw... the card I'm using is an apacer HS 60x 1gb card... it's the one bundled for free with the package, is this any good? :)

@nino: Oh ok... you have a point... resolution in Jpeg is the highest btw... the card I'm using is an apacer HS 60x 1gb card... it's the one bundled for free with the package, is this any good? :)

the apacer "60x" is not actually a 60x fast. the same with the ridatas. if you have time, i'd like to benchmark the card for you. for best results try kingston and sandisk.

what do you mean by benchmark? i'm planning to get a kingston, how much is a 2gb kingston HS? so the problem with my "speed" lies with the card that I have?

what do you mean by benchmark? i'm planning to get a kingston, how much is a 2gb kingston HS? so the problem with my "speed" lies with the card that I have?

don't know the pricing though.

your problem with speed MIGHT be your card. we have to narrow it down. benchmarking means we're going to test the real read and write speed of the card via a software.

Oh I see... sure, so how do we benchmark my card?

Oh I see... sure, so how do we benchmark my card?

There are a lot of ways. If you want to try it on your end, HDTach RW and Sisoft Sandra Professional should start you off. You do need a card reader to do this. Else, we do it here in HQ at a scheduled time.

@nino: oh... I have no idea what you're talking about hehe... I'll just let you do it na lang hehe... when's the best time?

@nino: oh... I have no idea what you're talking about hehe... I'll just let you do it na lang hehe... when's the best time?

next week should be ok.

what do you mean by benchmark? i'm planning to get a kingston, how much is a 2gb kingston HS? so the problem with my "speed" lies with the card that I have?

Just woke up :Grin:

Yup, especially in combination with your camera model. The K100D needs a really fast card because of its smallish buffer (I don't have the number though) as compared with say the K10D or even the DS. I have yet to "scientifically" benchmark my 1GB cards but I do "feel" a difference between the Kingston and my el-cheapo PQI (an anachronism because I got that one when 1GB SD cards still cost close to P5k a year or so ago).

On the scale of things, our models are the bottom models--entry level ika nga. Compared with middle models that I have worked with like the Nikon D80 or the Canon 20D/30D or even the K10D, I would say that the DS or the K100D seems generally slower. I have never really put a Canon 350D or the lower end Nikons, which would be our models' equivalent, to work so I can't comment on those. Maybe someone else can.

Ok! I'll probably just PM you as to when I'm available... thanks!

Bong, I see... maybe I do need a beter card :) Was just starting to worry that maybe something is wrong with my camera or something...

Franz, I suspect maybe it's the Apacer card. I have the exact same card, it came with my K10D. I also have a PQI card with the same specs. They are 60x and 1GB. I'm comparing the write speeds just now, writing a 10mb RAW file on my Panasonic LX2:

The results:

Apacer - 10 secs
PQI - 4 secs

@Roger: Hmmm.... that's quite a significant difference in write speed! Most probably it's the card, I'll be purchasing a 2gb kingston or sandisk soon, maybe later, I'll see if the speed improves by then! Thanks!

@Sir Franz - My experience is with CF cards: Last January, my brother bought a slowish (not sure about the speed) Kingston CF card. It was significantly slower than the Ridata 150x 2GB I have. The Ridatas are fast, but there have been reports of it going boink. I think Sandisk is the preferred brand of many.

could we possibly let Sanly knows this? at least they'll be aware that the Apacer cards are giving confusions to the other excited buyers that was awed by that small freebie...

@Sir Franz - My experience is with CF cards: Last January, my brother bought a slowish (not sure about the speed) Kingston CF card. It was significantly slower than the Ridata 150x 2GB I have. The Ridatas are fast, but there have been reports of it going boink. I think Sandisk is the preferred brand of many.

Depends on which Kingston you have also. The new Ultimates are wicked.

Depends on which Kingston you have also. The new Ultimates are wicked.

Oo nga, Sir Nino. :) The one my brother bought is a 256MB Kingston. He threw the packaging before I can see the speed, but it's comparatively very slow. I think it's an old model na. Medyo nauto pa nga siya kasi he bought it at 1000 pesos sa Fuji. This was this January lang.

The Ridatas are fast, but there have been reports of it going boink.

i also heard of it... but so far, the 1GB Ridata 150X i bought along with my Canon S3IS since December is still working fine... i actually bought another one, second-hand though, of the same capacity... and it's also working fine...

the cards that they have in cdr-king are sandisk ones right? are those okay? i'll check out the kingston ultimates too...

the cards that they have in cdr-king are sandisk ones right? are those okay? i'll check out the kingston ultimates too...

I wouldn't touch that. That's not legit Kingstons.

@Franz: afaik, cdr-king's kingston card has no r/w speed indicated... so let's assume that it's only 1X...

btw, here's cdr-king's site http://www.cdrking.com/local/products/index.php?action=submnu&temp=1&typeno=8648027-999059-181741329-7723564∏=Kingston (http://www.cdrking.com/local/products/index.php?action=submnu&temp=1&typeno=8648027-999059-181741329-7723564&prod=Kingston)

the PQI ones in cdr-king? are they ok?

thanks for the link totie, browsing now, and going to megamall in a few minutes hehe:)

what speed should i be looking for in a memory card? the one best suited for my camera?

hi franz,

it makes no sense if you spend money on a really fast card if your camera is writes slower. for best results, determine the read and write speed of your card from your manual and let us know.

@nino: true... I was wondering what speed my camera could handle... i'll probably check the manual when I get home, just to be sure though!

ditto with Nino... you better take a look in your manual the recommended card speed that it requires...

can't find it in the manual, saw an online manual, it's not written in the manual...crap...

i'm also browsing the online manual and saw nothing...

to be safe, i suggest to get a 150X card speed as what Randy is using on his K100D... it's the same type of card i had that he also used on his S3IS before...

Found this in dpreview:

K100D using Sandisk Extreme III SD

Time taken from shutter release being pressed to the review image being displayed in LCD
RAW 1.9 sec
JPEG 1.8 sec

Burst mode
RAW
rate 2.6 approx. frames 3. next burst 11.4 sec
JPEG
rate 2.6 approx. frames 4. next burst 4.4 sec

Found this in dpreview:

K100D using Sandisk Extreme III SD

Time taken from shutter release being pressed to the review image being displayed in LCD
RAW 1.9 sec
JPEG 1.8 sec

Burst mode
RAW
rate 2.6 approx. frames 3. next burst 11.4 sec
JPEG
rate 2.6 approx. frames 4. next burst 4.4 sec

wow. thats a wee bit slow though considering that it was a Sandisk Extreme III

Found this in dpreview:

K100D using Sandisk Extreme III SD

Time taken from shutter release being pressed to the review image being displayed in LCD
RAW 1.9 sec
JPEG 1.8 sec

Burst mode
RAW
rate 2.6 approx. frames 3. next burst 11.4 sec
JPEG
rate 2.6 approx. frames 4. next burst 4.4 sec

That's realistic. That's about what I get with my DS using a 1gb Kingston, which is older and must be slower than the Sandisk. I guess the DS' bigger buffer makes a little difference.

I think this is the main complaint on the K100D which Pentax addressed for the K10D.

The K10D in comparison has a huge buffer memory. I can even shoot unlimited JPEG images @ 3fps on a 88x Apacer SD Card until it's full. 11-12 RAW PEFs before the buffer fills and slows down to 1fps. Plus the memory buffer is really fast because it uses DDR RAM.

But I don't think Pentax changed the buffer for the K100D Super still?

isn't it addressed on the latest 1.01 and later firmware update?

I think this is the main complaint on the K100D which Pentax addressed for the K10D.

The K10D in comparison has a huge buffer memory. I can even shoot unlimited JPEG images @ 3fps on a 88x Apacer SD Card until it's full. 11-12 RAW PEFs before the buffer fills and slows down to 1fps. Plus the memory buffer is really fast because it uses DDR RAM.

But I don't think Pentax changed the buffer for the K100D Super still?

It appears there are very slight improvements in the Super version. Nagtipid ang Pentax. :Grin:

From dpreview:
Consecutive shooting of up to five frames at the speed of approximately 2.8 frames per second (at BEST image quality in JPEG format)

I still remember my Canon 300D whose "next burst" timing was 30 secs for RAW and 15 secs for JPEG. It didn't really bother me since I rarely used continuous shooting and the shot-to-shot speed was still faster than I could compose my shots; still faster than any point & shoot, though the playback speed has fallen behind.

so i gues the slowness i encounter is normal... better get myself a better memory card then... what totie said, wasn't the problem addressed with higher firmwares? mine is still 1.0, won't upgrade yet till i have my camera checked at sanly cubao...

what do you mean by benchmark? i'm planning to get a kingston, how much is a 2gb kingston HS? so the problem with my "speed" lies with the card that I have?

Franz, didn't you get the Extreme III pricing i sent you? there are SD cards there not only CF :Grin:

@franz: take a look at here http://www.digital.pentax.co.jp/ja/info/20060808e.html

What pricing Sir Willy? PM? or in this thread? I didn't get it...

Thanks for the link totie! But I'm thinking, maybe I should have my camera checked before I update? Or ok lang siguro yun? I'm in the office now, and here I am updating my camera! haha...

you're welcome franz! :)

i guess it's okay to upgrade as it also came from pentax site itself...

ah cool cool ... will upgrade when I get home... my batt might die out suddenly...

What pricing Sir Willy? PM? or in this thread? I didn't get it...

Thanks for the link totie! But I'm thinking, maybe I should have my camera checked before I update? Or ok lang siguro yun? I'm in the office now, and here I am updating my camera! haha...

PM Sent, yeah it's much better to take it back to Sanly for a check-up, you never know...

Got it sir! Yeah, better to have Sanly do a check-up with the camera "as is" from when I got it... if I update it, who knows, they might take it against me or something :)

guys i have a question. my friend tried my K100d a while ago. he said that it couldn't focus in the dark very well. ganon din po ba sa inyo?

he said that my camera(canon 400d) can shoot faster than my camera at night.

is my camera faulty???

guys i have a question. my friend tried my K100d a while ago. he said that it couldn't focus in the dark very well. ganon din po ba sa inyo?

he said that my camera(canon 400d) can shoot faster than my camera at night.

is my camera faulty???

"He said." Why don't you try his 400D on a side-by-side test?

@ sir bong

well, ive tried it several times sir.. and it was quite fast. ive tired it several time also. what do you think po sir?

Toj, this is the same friend who criticized you for buying a Pentax? I think he just needs reassurance from a friend that he bought the right camera. Don't give him that!!!! :D:D



guys i have a question. my friend tried my K100d a while ago. he said that it couldn't focus in the dark very well. ganon din po ba sa inyo?

he said that my camera(canon 400d) can shoot faster than my camera at night.

is my camera faulty???

@ sir Jamie

yes sir. he is, sir. i agree with your opinion. salamat po.:D and its just been more than a week kaya madami pa akong time to practice with my K100D.

i love my camera!:D

Right Jamie!

I have never handled a K100D & a 400D side-by-side. I have used a DS, a 350D and a 20D side-by-side. The 20D is a whole lot faster definitely; between the 350D & the DS I'd say it should be about the same but I'm not measuring milliseconds. Maybe the 350D is faster.

So?

Now I had the choice to switch to the Canon 20D (not even the 350D) which I passed up for my slowish DS. Remember you are buying into a system where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.

Hey Toj, love your K100D! I love mine to bits!

Your friend clearly needs to reassure himself that his camera is better than yours...
I have a friend, a Canon 400D user too and a member here as well (won't mention the name though) when we met one time, after seeing my K100D he immediately grew envious. He compared both cameras side by side and was kinda meek about his 400D. He said that my K100D was better than his! That his camera didn't have an LCD display on top, and that the menu of the K100D is much more pleasing to the eye and much easier to navigate (he couldn't even find how to change metering modes on his! Me too, when I offered to look for it...:)) and when we started taking pictures, he was puzzled why my camera took better pictures than his (though this is subjective since we were both shooting in manual mode, maybe he just didn't know what he was doing...). In the end, he wanted to shift to Pentax!

Oh and another thing why he wants to shift is because he browses the Pentax forums occasionally and finds that Pentaxians are really supportive of each other and help each other out without any blowhards hehe... I told him that's because we Pentaxians are the minority and we won't gain anything by acting high and mighty to each other... besides, we're too few to be bickering and flouting with each other! :)

guys i have a question. my friend tried my K100d a while ago. he said that it couldn't focus in the dark very well. ganon din po ba sa inyo?

he said that my camera(canon 400d) can shoot faster than my camera at night.

is my camera faulty???

This topic comes up form time to time at dpr. It is true that relatively speaking, the Pentax bodies focus a little slower than the Canons or Nikons. I think the reason for this is that Pentax uses a different algorithim when focusing. The camera checks and rechecks before giving a cofirmation of focus lock. The plus side of this is that you get more accurately focused pictures.

If AF is too slow for you then go MF. That's what the big viewfinder is for anyway.

Just my borrowed 2 cents.
Nols:)

This topic comes up form time to time at dpr. It is true that relatively speaking, the Pentax bodies focus a little slower than the Canons or Nikons. I think the reason for this is that Pentax uses a different algorithim when focusing. The camera checks and rechecks before giving a cofirmation of focus lock. The plus side of this is that you get more accurately focused pictures.

If AF is too slow for you then go MF. That's what the big viewfinder is for anyway.

Just my borrowed 2 cents.
Nols:)

Moreover, we have to consider that Canon already has USM and Nikon has AF-S lenses which use sonic motors built-in to the lens to focus. Pentax still relies on the AF drive shaft on the body to drive the focusing of the lenses.

If you compare Pentax AF with a third party lens for Canon and Nikon without a sonic motor, there's hardly any difference in AF speed.

The AF comparison should be done when the new Supersonic Drive Motor (SDM) lenses arrive. :Grin:

guys i have a question. my friend tried my K100d a while ago. he said that it couldn't focus in the dark very well. ganon din po ba sa inyo?

he said that my camera(canon 400d) can shoot faster than my camera at night.

is my camera faulty???



I'm using a 400D in the office right now, and yes the 400D focuses alot, lot faster than my K10D in lowlight.

Alot of people are wondering whether is the fault of the SAFOX VIII Phase detection AF. I still think this is because of the sonic motor advantage I was getting with the 400D and the EF-s 10-22 lens.

And honestly, I did a test. The 400D focused in lowlight/low-contrast situations in about a second or less but nearly half of my shots were slightly out of focus. The K10D focused from 1 to as long as 6 seconds, but all shots were accurately focused. This is without the AF Assist of course.

I find that helping the lens focus using the quickshift technology helps. While half-pressing and when the camera can't get a focus, manually focus while still half pressing and focus on the subject (quickshift), the camera will take over the focusing when it can get enough detail and contrast from the quickshift adjustment. :Grin:

Also, the AF360fgz's and the AF540fgz's AF assist spotbeam really does help alot. :)

thank you for all of you comments, especially the comment of sir Franz.:D salamat po.:D

Sir Franz, i too have the same story. one of my schoolmates(he uses a 400d) took shots using my k100d. after taking shots he told me "pare and ganda nung pagkafocus and yung colors ng pentax mo." its really nice to hear about that.:D

@Toj: See? You don't have to concern yourself with what others are saying... the K100D is a great camera! Whoever tells you otherwise is just insecure with theirs:)

Do the opposite and tell your friend he has a great camera. Then you can both take great images together as photo enthusiasts, not brand loyalists. Brand competition has a way of sneaking up on you and keeps you from enjoying photo opportunities with other users.

True, I mean competition is good as long as its healthy, it keeps the camera makers to churn out even greater stuff, but when competition turns ugly, that's when you should just clear away and let your photos do the talking... the same Canon 400D user friend that I have, we don't let things turn into a debate which camera is better, we just hang out and shoot and have fun!:) Those who lambast other brands aren't photographers, they're probably just a bunch of insecure techie geeks looking to find someone they can lord over...

TRUE! True!

True, I mean competition is good as long as its healthy, it keeps the camera makers to churn out even greater stuff, but when competition turns ugly, that's when you should just clear away and let your photos do the talking... the same Canon 400D user friend that I have, we don't let things turn into a debate which camera is better, we just hang out and shoot and have fun!:) Those who lambast other brands aren't photographers, they're probably just a bunch of insecure techie geeks looking to find someone they can lord over...

that friend of mine just loves competition. hahaha... one sign of immaturity and kayabangan.:P

@Toj: Let him be... he wants reassurance that his is the better camera... to each his own, but to put down another's camera to glorify his? Tsk tsk... immaturity indeed.

In my photos with a dark or black background, there seems to be a small white dot in the same spot everytime. Is this dust or something far worse?

here is the cropped test shot i took using the sigma lens
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1021/961838749_71627ec831.jpg

and here is the cropped image with the kit lens (my crop isn't exact so the location of the spot is not aligned...)
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1424/961838737_661ac6b81c.jpg

What's weird, when I sent Larry the full sized photos, when you super zoom it, it's colored blue and is shaped like a cross... ano to?!(what is this?!)

that friend of mine just loves competition. hahaha... one sign of immaturity and kayabangan.:P
you ask him na lang how many awards napanalunan or photos na napublish with his camera

In my photos with a dark or black background, there seems to be a small white dot in the same spot everytime. Is this dust or something far worse?

What's weird, when I sent Larry the full sized photos, when you super zoom it, it's colored blue and is shaped like a cross... ano to?!(what is this?!)

http://www.ontu.net/images/vpn.jpg

Like this? If it occurs in the same place all the time, it could be a dead pixel. If it does not, it may be a case of a VPN which happens in a badly underexposed shot...it happens. Sometimes in happens in the same place in a sequence of shots. Try it again and see if its still there.

If it's VPN, how do I avoid this? If it's a dead pixel? Is there anything I can do about it? Thanks Bong!:)

If it's VPN, how do I avoid this? If it's a dead pixel? Is there anything I can do about it? Thanks Bong!:)

There's a thread on VPN & the K10D somewhere. Anyway, it is associated with dark--usually under exposed--shots at high ISO. So simply keep your ISO down for dark shots (which may be difficult if you're shooting rock bands with available light). Night shots like Randall's are usually shot mid level ISO and are time exposures.

Try testing your camera muna at a lower ISO setting and see if it goes away.

If I remember correctly, I still had the spot even when I shot at ISO 400... I'll make sure later when I get home... what about if it's a dead pixel? what can I do about it?

btw, I checked with one of my photos here and ISO800 still has the spot... I don't think this is too high right?

if i remember correctly, i still had the spot even when i shot at iso 400... i'll make ure later when i get home... what about if it's a dead pixel? what can i do about it?

Sanly uwi niyan...:Shock:

Crap... oh well, I've 2 other problems with the camera anyways, better have them all fixed in one go na...

Crap... oh well, I've 2 other problems with the camera anyways, better have them all fixed in one go na...

That's called a hot pixel. It happens over time to all sensors. I've read a thread in DPreview that a person had 3 hot pixels showing and he sent his camera back for repairs. When he got it back it had more than 20 hot pixels!

So, if it's just less than 10, I'd just keep it. It's hardly even noticeable in daylight shots and even in print. If you shoot RAW, Adobe Camera RAW even removes hot pixels on it's own. :Grin:

Also, I think this can be caused by non-stop use. I had a recurring hot pixel in one spot for 2 days when I used my camera on a very hot day continuously. But after I didn't use it for a few days, the hot pixel went away. :)

By the way, the higher the ISO and the longer the exposure, the more likely you'll get hot pixels.

But I only got my camera last June... I only made about 3 long exposure shots, and my usage is only a few shots every few days... I am not a heavy user by any account naman... oh well...

Crap... oh well, I've 2 other problems with the camera anyways, better have them all fixed in one go na...

Sir Franz, I can't view your posted pictures, but if the problem is evident on the picture itself, it may be a case of "hot pixels". This is a sensor problem. They are easily visible on dark backgrounds, where the pixels glow (red, blue, white, etc.). They are different from the dead/stuck pixels on the LCD. They are worse.

Even new cameras may have these hot pixels. Manufacturers normally have a maximum tolerable number of these problem pixels; how many I don't really know. I think it will be a case to case basis. Sensors deteriorate too, so even if you have a clean sensor now, they may develop over time. If the hot pixels are numerous, close to the center, or close to each other (therby forming a big hot pixel), then you can contest it with Sanly.

A good way of testing the presence of hot pixels is to shoot with the lens cap on. Set the camera to f/22 and shoot. I haven't tried this myself. You know... ignorance is bliss. :Grin:

@francis: true true... I only discovered the hot pixel last night when I zoomed in on one of my photos so I checked my past pics and there it was all the while... it isn't at all that evident, only if you look for it. Ignorance is bliss indeed, cause before, I was content. Now that I know a hot pixel is lurking, I feel kinda uncomfortable... still, I'll have Sanly's look at it since I have two other problems with my camera...

Sir Randall is right. If it's just a few pixels, then live with it nalang. Even new cameras exhibit these. I would infer that my camera has a few hot pixels too (plus a stuck pixel on the LCD). Ayaw ko lang i-test, baka ma-depress lang ako. :Grin: Unfortunately, you can't do anything about it, unless you can convince Sanly to replace it. The only consolation is that there is a stamp tool in PS.

I don't use PhotoShop, but I guess I can learn hehe:) Yah, don't test it! haha I found one on mine and I'm depressed! What more if there was more than one...hehe:)

okay.. there you go, Franz! From the Masters Of The Universe... now, there's no need for you to panic and head to the nearest church for a blessing! Scientific explanations and not an APPARITION goin on in your camera! it's busted! hehe :D

I don't use PhotoShop, but I guess I can learn hehe:) Yah, don't test it! haha I found one on mine and I'm depressed! What more if there was more than one...hehe:)

Study photoshop na! :) It's very very easy. I wouldn't survive without the clone tool. When I have my film scanned in Fuji, I usually get all sorts of dusts and scratches on my pictures. Cleaning out the "debris" is the first step in my workflow.

@Larry: haha and you thought it was haunted! Apparition! Miracle camera!-- sira lang pala...hehe

@francis: I think PhotoFiltre(the program I use) has the clone tool too, how does that work? All the PP I do is just adjust brightness, hue, contrast, saturation...etc. the basic stuff... and even that I do rarely... maybe convert to monochrome is the "hardest" thing that I do with my pictures ... the spot in my camera, I just dab with a black dot! hahaha

@franz: haunted or possessed? :D

@Larry: haha and you thought it was haunted! Apparition! Miracle camera!-- sira lang pala...hehe

@francis: I think PhotoFiltre(the program I use) has the clone tool too, how does that work? All the PP I do is just adjust brightness, hue, contrast, saturation...etc. the basic stuff... and even that I do rarely... maybe convert to monochrome is the "hardest" thing that I do with my pictures ... the spot in my camera, I just dab with a black dot! hahaha

I'm not familiar with PhotoFiltre, but in photoshop, just select the clone tool, set a reference point (similar color to the surroundings of the spot you are removing), then click. Ok na. You can play with the brush sizes and types para mas maganda ang blending.

@francis: ... therein lies the problem... I'm color blind hehe... which is why when I do process, it's mostly monochrome hehe... which doesn't come out B&W pa! a friend told me my monochromes has a greenish tone! hahaha... but it's ok, it looks good naman daw eh.:)

@francis: ... therein lies the problem... I'm color blind hehe... which is why when I do process, it's mostly monochrome hehe... which doesn't come out B&W pa! a friend told me my monochromes has a greenish tone! hahaha... but it's ok, it looks good naman daw eh.:)

Hehe. The best thing to use then is the Healing Brush in PS. Just paint over the dusts and spots. Instant clean.

@franz: haunted or possessed? :D

Har! :D

We can handle that too! Exorcism or casting out evil spirits (paging Pastor Joey)! May suki rin kami ni Randall na arbolaryo sa Quiapo...

Dahil ba kasi cross? What if it was the Crescent of Islam or even THIS (http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/history/historycanon.htm) (scroll halfway down the page)? :Shock:

Haha Kwanon... sabotage na yun! Possessed becuase of the AE-L button glitch pa, and the weird silver dust in the viewing screen, and now a blue cross! haha...