hi everybody! i just would like to ask for an advice re: camera settings for a wedding. particularly in-door ceremony with NO FLASH and off tripod.

thank you very much!!!

This is going to be difficult dude. Is it going to be a daytime wedding? And where will it be held? Hows the lighting of the venue? What camera will you be using?

Asuming your camera can do the ff, these will be the settings i recommend:

Auto ISO
High ISO NR ON
Use the fastest lens in your arsenal F1.8 or F1.4
Set slowest shutter speed limit to 1/30 or 1/15 if you can still handle that without camera shake.


I'd suggest you survey the venue and take test shots. You DO NOT want to mess up a wedding dude. It only happens once in a lifetime for most people. :)

I would suggest that you don't use your camera's noise reduction feature. In camera noise reduction is very crude. Noise reduction can be done better in photoshop.

thanks,peter. actually its going to be a practice. not really a full coverage thing. but still, i want to do it as pefect as i can. i just started last month.

as for the wedding, it'll be done on daytime (afternoon i guess) The lighting, well, can i just say "typical daytime in-door church wedding"? i'll be using a canon 350d.

thanks a lot,sir! im gonna give it a try.

I would suggest that you don't use your camera's noise reduction feature. In camera noise reduction is very crude. Noise reduction can be done better in photoshop.

thanks sir! i'll keep this in mind.

Ask the pro at the wedding. Most would be kind enough to tell you at what setting they're working at. :D I suppose you can key off him and I think you may be able to take advantage of the lighting they will use.

It would be very difficult to pinpoint the actual aperture/shutter speed settings without actually being at the site.

Good luck, have fun and post pics!

I would suggest that you don't use your camera's noise reduction feature. In camera noise reduction is very crude. Noise reduction can be done better in photoshop.

True, but the question was the "camera setting". I naturally asumed that he wont post process. And based on my experience from some of the best wedding photographers, they take literally hundreds or even thousands of shots in a wedding. It's not practical to photoshop all the pix. Hence they take the best photos possible in-cam. And depending on the camera, onboard NR works, Ive tested it in my D80. Compared noise ninja output to the built in NR, at least for me it's fine.

thanks,peter. actually its going to be a practice. not a really a full coverage thing. but still, i want to do it as pefect as i can. i just started last month.

as for the wedding, it'll be done on daytime (afternoon i guess) The lighting, well, can i just say "typical daytime in-door church wedding"? i'll be using a canon 350d.

thanks a lot,sir! im gonna give it a try.

Ok, your camera is capable. Just use a fast lens. Here's another tip, Is there going to be a video coverage? If so, use their lights to your advantage. Just make sure you make the proper white balance setting for the type of light they will be using. Better yet, bring an exposure grey/white card and make the WB setting set as custom, para mas accurate.:)

Shoot RAW so there will be more room for post processing. I wouldn't advice for shooting wide open i.e. f/1.4 or f/1.8... or even f/2.8. Better be between f/4 and f/8, afterall, you are boosting the ISO already. Shooting in wide open gives you shallower DOF which is an invitation to OOF photos.

Usually, if the video is allowed to use their flood light, they wouldn't mind you flash... use this opprotunity.

thanks, sir peter and sir rolando!

wow! im really learning a lot. its a good thing i posted this thread.

I don't PP all the images my team and I shoot at a wedding. Most of us promise wedding clients an unlimited number of digital images. But we also state that we will only PP and turn over them about 10%-25% of what we actually shot.

Yes, you would need to shoot the image as best as possible to minimize PP.

But you will still have to edit all your selected images so that they print properly.

For example, it is the norm to do something as simple as tweaking the colors and making sure that your images have sufficient shadow and highlight detail once the images have to be printed. :D

True, but the question was the "camera setting". I naturally asumed that he wont post process. And based on my experience from some of the best wedding photographers, they take literally hundreds or even thousands of shots in a wedding. It's not practical to photoshop all the pix. Hence they take the best photos possible in-cam. And depending on the camera, onboard NR works, Ive tested it in my D80. Compared noise ninja output to the built in NR, at least for me it's fine.

I don't PP all the images my team and I shoot at a wedding. Most of us promise wedding clients an unlimited number of digital images. But we also state that we will only PP and turn over them about 10%-25% of what we actually shot.

Yes, you would need to shoot the image as best as possible to minimize PP.

But you will still have to edit all your selected images so that they print properly.

For example, it is the norm to do something as simple as tweaking the colors and making sure that your images have sufficient shadow and highlight detail once the images have to be printed. :D

I Agree. :)

Dindo, you can also set your ISO to auto and be in Shutter Priority if the subjects are moving, be in Aperture Priority if you can have the subjects stop for a few seconds.

I also got a 350d. It's a-okay for this low light kind of shoot. Problema ko lang e yung contrast ng cam - too harsh for me. Just do some adjustments on the contrast and colors before comitting to shoot.

Also, when shooting low shutter speed be concious to spend another split second in your shooting position after you hear the shutter closed. This way you can reduce some blur if not totally eliminate them. Also, when you have the chance to shoot with some aid from the videographers' light, don't forget to adjust the camera settings (aperture/shutter) appropraitely to avoid over exposure.

My 2 cents.

I don't recommend setting the ISO to auto.

You always need two things to determine if the exposure setting recommendation by the camera's meter is correct. Exposure settings are always based on ISO and the amount of available light.

The camera doesn't inform you while you are shooting what ISO it is using when ISO is set to auto.

If the ISO setting is a wild card, how will you know when the camera's exposure setting recommendation is erroneous? :D

Oh, Mine does show what ISO its going to use. If the OP's camera doesn't, he may not use this option. :D

But sir Jo, please tell me if my understanding is wrong.

Given My ISO is on Auto;

If I am in Shutter Priority, the camera adjusts the Aperture first and use the lowest ISO setting. If the aperture is maxed out and the proper exposure is not achieved, only then the ISO is adjusted. If proper exposure is still not achieved, then the camera sort of give the operator a warning. Mine, it flashes the AUTO ISO text on my view finder.

If I am in Aperture Priority, the camera adjusts the Shutter first and use the lowest ISO setting. If the Shutter is maxed out and the proper exposure is not achieved, only then the ISO is adjusted. If proper exposure is still not achieved, then the camera sort of give the operator a warning. Mine, it flashes the AUTO ISO text on my view finder.

In full manual, the ISO is adjusted right away if the exposure is not proper based on your Aperture and Shutter settings.

In essence, we can't conclude that the ISO in auto mode is but random or wild card. It set itself with respect to the settings of the Aperture and Shutter in all shooting mode. And together they all behave to make the camera achive the proper exposure of +/-0 plus the user added EV.

To the Original Poster, if you can get it done without resorting to auto ISO, it's better not to use Auto ISO. Like Sir Jo, I don't use it also. But knowing about it will not hurt. :D


I don't recommend setting the ISO to auto.

You always need two things to determine if the exposure setting recommendation by the camera's meter is correct. Exposure settings are always based on ISO and the amount of available light.

The camera doesn't inform you while you are shooting what ISO it is using when ISO is set to auto.

If the ISO setting is a wild card, how will you know when the camera's exposure setting recommendation is erroneous? :D

Actually, the last sound you hear from a dSLR is the mirror slap. No point hanging over even 1 microsecond after this sound. Because after this sound, the mirror is down and it is already blocking the sensor. And of course, the sensor is off by then. :D

I also got a 350d. It's a-okay for this low light kind of shoot. Problema ko lang e yung contrast ng cam - too harsh for me. Just do some adjustments on the contrast and colors before comitting to shoot.

Also, when shooting low shutter speed be concious to spend another split second in your shooting position after you hear the shutter closed. This way you can reduce some blur if not totally eliminate them. Also, when you have the chance to shoot with some aid from the videographers' light, don't forget to adjust the camera settings (aperture/shutter) appropraitely to avoid over exposure.

My 2 cents.

Your assumption is that one might want the proper exposure based on what the camera recommends. But what if you don't want to follow the recommendation?

Setting the ISO manually actually affords me more creative control over the image quality :D

Thank you very much sir. Your point is added in my knowledge base. :D

Your assumption is that one might want the proper exposure based on what the camera recommends. But what if you don't want to follow the recommendation?

Setting the ISO manually actually affords me more creative control over the image quality :D

Actually, the last sound you hear from a dSLR is the mirror slap. No point hanging over even 1 microsecond after this sound. Because after this sound, the mirror is down and it is already blocking the sensor. And of course, the sensor is off by then

Agree but I am not talking about electronics here.

Every sport I am involved in teaches a "follow through". When you shoot a ball coaches would encourage you to follow through with your fingers even though the ball is already out of your hands. Smashing a shuttle cock in badminton, my coach friend would also recommend a follow through even though the shuttle cock has already been hit. Concious of this, the body is disciplined to perform the proper execution of the movement and not doing it haphazardly. That is body kinetics. The same with photography - when you are concious to at least spend a split second after you hear the shutter closed, you are disciplined not to hurry your shots at low shutter speeds.

Pero, I admit we are all unique, so the best way - test mo if it helps you. It helped me a great deal.

my last settings during a VA was f/4 or smaller and 1/60 or faster, iso400, but of course i have my flash with me.

basta iwasan lang anything slower than 1/60 kasi minsan may motion blur, kahit steady hands, kung yung subject gumalaw, may motion blur na which is not very useful anymore. :D

That is body kinetics. The same with photography - when you are concious to at least spend a split second after you hear the shutter closed, you are disciplined not to hurry your shots at low shutter speeds.

Pero, I admit we are all unique, so the best way - test mo if it helps you. It helped me a great deal.

im gonna try this one. you have a point,sir.
its not really on the technical side. its more on anticipation.


im learning a lot, guys. its all in the knowledge bank. "chi-ching!!!"

thanks very much!

keep it coming.

.
To the Original Poster, if you can get it done without resorting to auto ISO, it's better not to use Auto ISO. Like Sir Jo, I don't use it also. But knowing about it will not hurt. :D

ok. so, what iso setting will work best or i have to play with it in the actual event?
manual?

my last settings during a VA was f/4 or smaller and 1/60 or faster, iso400, but of course i have my flash with me.

basta iwasan lang anything slower than 1/60 kasi minsan may motion blur, kahit steady hands, kung yung subject gumalaw, may motion blur na which is not very useful anymore. :D

i dont have external flash. higher ISO?

I'm with Rolly on Auto-ISO.

It's a god-send, especially for constantly changing lighting. The best part about it for me is using it while the camera is in manual mode. You, the photographer, control the shutter speed and aperture so you get the desired effect on your images. The camera compensates by adjusting the ISO as dictated by the meter.


http://www.digitalreview.ca/cams/pics/NikonD2Xs_autoISO.jpg

Did you know we also have ISO Priority mode?

Did you know we also have ISO Priority mode?

There is? Is it available in the 400D?

It's available to ALL dSLR... see? you are not tinkering your camera!

:D

hahaha.. i bet it's the P mode

There is? Is it available in the 400D?

It's a trick question Aly. In P mode, the ISO can be set to any setting. Hence ISO priority.:)

Yup, it's in the P mode. You set the ISO, the camera works out the Aperture and Shutter... :D

First thing first, know your camera, abuse its strength, know its flaws and device a way to work around it.

thanks for the advice!

i was able to practice last sat and i discoverd a lot.
although it didnt turn out the way i expected it, i can say that it wasnt that bad for a first time.

i wish i can post pics but i dont know yet how to resize the image.