wanna know the real exposure.
Example skin tone...

Regards

FherD

were you planning on putting up a picture? cant see it.....

bad exposure... can't see a thing

if im going to shoot portraiture
studio set-up or available lighting.

can anyone give me the correct skin tone?

FherD


were you planning on putting up a picture? cant see it.....

Chris can you set such good skin tone exposure?
have an image?


FherD

were you planning on putting up a picture? cant see it.....

Correct exposure depends on the skin tone of ther person. If the person is light skinned or dark skinned, there is a big difference when trying to achieve the "correct exposure". Please post a sample so we can give you how we feel about the exposure.

Fherdy Bro., I guess you have to rephrase your query... It's a bit vague... Thanks. :)

Proper white balance also plays a big part in determining the correct skin tone.
Also being accurate isn't always best that is why there is such a thing as "creative exposure".

regards.

^ as I understand from Zandy's reply, theres a standard for determining the correct skin tone, but its the prerogative of the one whos taking the picture to produce the image into his/her own taste?

I'd like to add this question if you may, Whats the proper white balance or procedure in determining the balance for taking a correct skin tone?

What is creative exposure?

I have just finished reading the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and I am recommending it to you for a better understanding of exposure. He said and I am sure everybody will agree that for a certain shot, there is at least six f-stops and shutter speeds combinations that will all result in a correct exposure. However, just one of these combinations is the "creatively correct" one, and that would depend on what one f-stop or one shutter speed you choose to achieve the desired exposure that you want to achieve.

I'd like to answer, but I don't really understand the question. Can I buy a vowel? :)

Correct exposure depends on the skin tone of ther person. If the person is light skinned or dark skinned, there is a big difference when trying to achieve the "correct exposure". Please post a sample so we can give you how we feel about the exposure.


Question on this, ma'am. Shouldn't exposure depend on the light falling on the subject and not on the skin tone?

[QUOTE=LeonardoColl]Question on this, ma'am. Shouldn't exposure depend on the light falling on the subject and not on the skin tone?[/QUOTE

Ideally in the perfect world yes. However, if you take a reading from a dark man, he will be lighter skinned if you expose for "correct exposure". You would need to underexpose by 1/2 to 1 stop for really dark skin tone. If you are photographing a real white person, you would need to increase your exposre by 1/2 to 1 stop. This rule applies especially to black and white film. HTH:)

I think a good grasp of the zone system would help to understand that meters will try to measure for middle grey, depending on your subject's complexion, you need to adjust your exposure accordingly.

I think Nick meant "adjust [exposure] accordingly." I think what Pilar is saying is that metering off a subject that reflects more or less light than 10% to 18% reflectance (What Nick terms 'middle gray') may cause your camera's metering system to go awry because real-world subjects vary greatly in their reflectance. You can use exposure compensation to achieve correct exposure.

Regards,
Norman

wanna know the real exposure.
Example skin tone...

Regards

FherD

FherD,

If you ask me, the answer is -- it depends on what you want done or what you want to happen.

The 18% gray card or whatever "proper exposure" value is just a guide, IMHO. It is not cast in stone. It is a starting point. And I suspect, that it is based on common situations you will likely shoot. So, use it as such. A starting point.

Think about it. What if you want a high key shot? You will overexpose, naturally. IF you want drama of a silhouete or partial silhouette then you underexpose. If you want to overcome the baklight, you will overexpose.

Then, color has an effect on exposure or at least what you want the image to come out. The issue of dynamic range is tied up to the exposure you may want to do, whether film or using a sensor. Also, If your portrait is using the setting sun, then you may want the image to be underexposed and use all that orange glow and not be concerned about proper color and skin tones.

Also, if are using film each one has its chracteristics. So, you have to factor that too. And some sensors behave differently. My d60 likes to underexpose a lot. I heard the 400d also did this by bit. The 10d tends to wash out the whites easily. You will find the 20d or the 30d doesn't tend to do it anymore.

So, what is the "correct" exposure now?


In the end, the "correct" exposure is what you want yourself to achieve, assuming you know how your sensor behaves and your subject matter and how the environment shapes light. In the end, you have to see the shot in your head first, then you dial in the exposure to get that shot you saw before you clicked the shutter.

hmmm..you guys think the OP just had info overload? hehehe......

you can look at it from 2 diff perspectives. creatively and technically. creatively you and only you can tell whether its correct or not. technically, well thats tougher hehehe.....but the exposure zones can help a bit....if your subject is light skinned, you may need to overexpose 1/3 or 1/2 or even 2/3 stop....if darker than usual do it the other way around...i think maam pilar already touched on this.

hmmm..you guys think the OP just had info overload? hehehe......

you can look at it from 2 diff perspectives. creatively and technically. creatively you and only you can tell whether its correct or not. technically, well thats tougher hehehe.....but the exposure zones can help a bit....if your subject is light skinned, you may need to overexpose 1/3 or 1/2 or even 2/3 stop....if darker than usual do it the other way around...i think maam pilar already touched on this.

For you and the other experts here, a question: you say creatively only the photographer can tell whether the exposure is correct or not for him. How do you crit a printed image then, if creatively the correct exposure is up of the photographer?

So you judge it technically or you cannot judge the image through exposure?

And if so, how can you say that the exposure of the image is technically correct?

FherD,


In the end, the "correct" exposure is what you want yourself to achieve, assuming you know how your sensor behaves and your subject matter and how the environment shapes light. In the end, you have to see the shot in your head first, then you dial in the exposure to get that shot you saw before you clicked the shutter.

Abosultely, correct exposure is what you want to achieve in your shot there is no right or wrong and as what nap said there are differnet settings of aperture and shutter speed in a given exposure.

18% gray card and a good lightmeter can help but it takes time so shooting in raw may be the only way when you are shooting an event ......

hmmm... i guess without considering much, you could start with a perfect exposure on a 5D to get the best skin tones. :)

For you and the other experts here, a question: you say creatively only the photographer can tell whether the exposure is correct or not for him. How do you crit a printed image then, if creatively the correct exposure is up of the photographer?

So you judge it technically or you cannot judge the image through exposure?

And if so, how can you say that the exposure of the image is technically correct?


sir migs, i guess you can look at it like a painting....lets say you have a picture of an apple to paint, technically what color would you use? red, green, yellowish....all technically acceptable, but a blue apple? it may not be right but lets say taken within the context of an abstract painting the author or painter has the right to say that is the proper color....he can even say i made it and thats the color i want to use? we cant tell him to use red coz apples are naturally red right?

we can look at a pic technically but if then again we can inject some personal biases....the same way when we critique here we say MAYBE or I THINK it would be better if you did this or that....then we give a reason based on personal opinions and biases....

For you and the other experts here, a question: you say creatively only the photographer can tell whether the exposure is correct or not for him. How do you crit a printed image then, if creatively the correct exposure is up of the photographer?

So you judge it technically or you cannot judge the image through exposure?

And if so, how can you say that the exposure of the image is technically correct?


It depends. It has to do with motive and intent. That in itself is hard to prove at times, but if the shooter's intent is not met, then it's a "bad" exposure. Let's take some examples.

Bride enters the church as its large doors open. The bride's face can't be seen because she is back lit by the outdoor light. She is merely a silhouette here. Now, is this a "bad" exposure?

You compensate, by opening aperture by 2 stops. Her face can be seen, but now the background is too bright, even washed out. Question - Is this now the correct exposure?

Now, if it were me, I'd take case one. Will you now say, that my exposure is wrong?

As the interpreter of the shot, I chose one. I could go with 2, but I didn't want that. IF that is what I want, then, 2 is the "correct" exposure. But since I want a silhouette, then the 1st one is the "correct" exposure.

But mind you, there are other cases that doesn't fall into this example. But you see that's the whole point. IT DEPENDS. In a group shot, I wouldn't want a silhouette shot, or even in most situations. But even that, there might be exceptions. If my subject matter is the candle at the altar with a bright flame, then I purposely darken the couple, you now have another situation. Is this the "correct" or is this the "wrong" exposure?

What is important is you know what you want to do, and you can execute it. You, as the photographer must determine what is the "correct" exposure. Maybe 95% of the shots require an 18% gray card exposure, but even that is subject to your own whims and caprice. You can always "violate" that rule or guide. There's also the technical issue that Ms. Pilar has brought about skin tones with some people being light and some dark. In the end, it's YOU who has to say w/c is the "correct" exposure.

Very well said Mel. ...When in doubt, BRACKET!:D

So, exposure is not an exact Science?

it never was....reason being
1) artistic inclinations...."i just want a silhouette"
2) the dynamic range of the camera can never approximate what our eyes see.....

and i really should proofread what i type here before i hit submit hehehehe.....

I have just finished reading the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and I am recommending it to you for a better understanding of exposure. He said and I am sure everybody will agree that for a certain shot, there is at least six f-stops and shutter speeds combinations that will all result in a correct exposure. However, just one of these combinations is the "creatively correct" one, and that would depend on what one f-stop or one shutter speed you choose to achieve the desired exposure that you want to achieve.

Sir Nap,

This book has helped me a lot with regards to exposure, especially since I'm just a beginner. :)

it never was....reason being
1) artistic inclinations...."i just want a silhouette"
2) the dynamic range of the camera can never approximate what our eyes see.....



Yes, that is correct. The camera, the sensor, the metering plays an important part too. I notice that the newer sensors have better dynamic range. Or at least, some of them don't blow out the highlights.


Also, the camera's metering system affects the "proper" exposure to a degree. For example, if I were to go back to my Nikon F3 I'd have to re-think the way my camera "reads' the light compared to my Canon 20d using it's evaluative metering. In the hey day prior to matrix metering or evaluative meterings, it's mostly center weighted. And even among the same brand, the "weight" is different. The Nikon F3 has that distribution at 80% while the FM's, FM2's and FE's are at 60% biased to the center.

So if you want to determine the "right" exposure, you have also have to know how your camera meters. To be more accurate, how your camera "sees" the light. Then it sends you as to what it considers, the "correct" exposure via aperture/shutter recommendations.

Regardless, as Ms. Pilar also wrote, if you are in doubt, you can always bracket your shots. I wish camera makers would give me a continuous shot mode with a 3-shot burst so I won't have count shots though :D. But you have to train your eye too. Sure, you can bracket, but the big question is by what value? 1 stop? 1/2 stop? 1/3 stop? Experience and some training will let you determine how far apart you need to bracket.