guys i need some help here.. I want to calibrate my monitor and the printer.
Ano po good na pang calibrate yung reasonable price po. and yung nabibili lang po here at the philippines. how much is the price? Easy to use ba yung pang calibrate?
I'm using Nikon D80, EPSON STYLUS PRO 4000 ULTRACHROME and kodak luster paper.

lastly,
i have other PCs and using different brands of monitor(LCD and CRT).
I also have other printers like epson c90, and canon ip5200 epson stylus pro 4000 in my network,
the question is can i calibrate all my monitors(different brands and different printers that will output the color from what i'm seeing in the monitor)?

hello up ko lang po mga guys,.

hi bro! check this thread it might help you cheers!!! :) http://www.digitalphotographer.com.ph/forum/showthread.php?t=6662&page=3

i already checked the forum but i can't find answers sa mga questions ko..
up ko lang po again.

gusto ko sana kumuha ng printFIX pro suite 2 or spyder 3..
magkano po kaya price?

i already checked the forum but i can't find answers sa mga questions ko..
up ko lang po again.

gusto ko sana kumuha ng printFIX pro suite 2 or spyder 3..
magkano po kaya price?

Contact Bella Luce Studios. Pilar Tuason, Nick Tuason and/or Nino Carandang. they sell the spyders.

Nikki,

I have replied to your same query earlier from a different thread... have you tried calling Bella Luce already? (rather than repeating the same question again)

And please note the English-Only rule in DPP

ok sorry guys.. english... thanks.

It's my turn to raise the question again... have you tried calling Bella Luce already, and is your previous question about calibration already resolved?

It would become a more meaningful thread if you could post actual steps done to resolve a process.

It's my turn to raise the question again... have you tried calling Bella Luce already, and is your previous question about calibration already resolved?

It would become a more meaningful thread if you could post actual steps done to resolve a process.

I already ordered spyder3 studio version.

Nikki... that's great to hear! Keep us posted on how you go over the calibration process of several devices... that would be interesting indeed. Cheers!

guys i need some help here.. I want to calibrate my monitor and the printer.
Ano po good na pang calibrate yung reasonable price po. and yung nabibili lang po here at the philippines. how much is the price? Easy to use ba yung pang calibrate?
I'm using Nikon D80, EPSON STYLUS PRO 4000 ULTRACHROME and kodak luster paper.

lastly,
i have other PCs and using different brands of monitor(LCD and CRT).
I also have other printers like epson c90, and canon ip5200 epson stylus pro 4000 in my network,
the question is can i calibrate all my monitors(different brands and different printers that will output the color from what i'm seeing in the monitor)?

Nice questions Nikki. The answer is yes, you can do all the above if you have the right gear. I heard from Nino that you discussed this over the phone already. To calibrate different monitors to look the same, you will need to find the common denominator for all monitors, meaning all monitors will have to be calibrated to the black point, luminance, etc that they all can achieve. As for printers, you will need to build custom profiles for each printer and paper that you use.

I too have a Pro 4000. I've noted that you use Kodak Luster on that and wonder if you can tolerate the bronzing.

Good luck in your quest.

Nice questions Nikki. The answer is yes, you can do all the above if you have the right gear. I heard from Nino that you discussed this over the phone already. To calibrate different monitors to look the same, you will need to find the common denominator for all monitors, meaning all monitors will have to be calibrated to the black point, luminance, etc that they all can achieve. As for printers, you will need to build custom profiles for each printer and paper that you use.

I too have a Pro 4000. I've noted that you use Kodak Luster on that and wonder if you can tolerate the bronzing.

Good luck in your quest.

thank you sir nick for making me feel confident in getting spyder3 studio version.

what do you mean by bronzing sir? is it toning?
what paper are you using in your pro 4000?

we have badluck in trying epson papers (we're always getting ghosting-effect when viewed from side angles)... that's why we tried kodak rollpaper banner and we sticked to it since then.

Now, it's time to bookmark this thread... thank you guys for the enlightening info.

I read from Scott Kelby's book that paper profiles for Epson's can be downloaded directly from their website. I did not try it because I'm using Canon :). You may want to try their website and see if the profiles are there.

thank you sir nick for making me feel confident in getting spyder3 studio version.

what do you mean by bronzing sir? is it toning?
what paper are you using in your pro 4000?

we have badluck in trying epson papers (we're always getting ghosting-effect when viewed from side angles)... that's why we tried kodak rollpaper banner and we sticked to it since then.

The ghosting effect you talk about is probably bronzing. On some angles you can get some sort of metallic effect that almost looks like the color bronze. Bronzing is the word that the industry uses to describe this. It is notorious with Ultrachrome on glossy or luster papers. Some glossy papers give less effect but will still have it if you use Ultrachrome inks. I only use Ultrachrome now on Matte papers which in my opinion is what it was best designed for. So the 4000 and the 7600 go strictly on matte and never on glossy anymore.

For gloss I bought a 7800 since the K3 inks virtually eliminate bronzing. For desktop printers, you can consider the R1800 since this comes with a Gloss Optimizer cartridge that makes those glossy prints shine. Bronzing is a thing of the past now with the new inks.

The ghosting effect you talk about is probably bronzing. On some angles you can get some sort of metallic effect that almost looks like the color bronze. Bronzing is the word that the industry uses to describe this. It is notorious with Ultrachrome on glossy or luster papers. Some glossy papers give less effect but will still have it if you use Ultrachrome inks. I only use Ultrachrome now on Matte papers which in my opinion is what it was best designed for. So the 4000 and the 7600 go strictly on matte and never on glossy anymore.

For gloss I bought a 7800 since the K3 inks virtually eliminate bronzing. For desktop printers, you can consider the R1800 since this comes with a Gloss Optimizer cartridge that makes those glossy prints shine. Bronzing is a thing of the past now with the new inks.

Wow, thanks you for explaining. very well said..
Right now we're using kodak rollpaper and at least im satisfied with the output.
but I want to try epson papers so that i wouldn't be struggling profiling paper for epson pro 4000.

hello just got spyder3 studio version.
I have a little problem calibrating my monitor and printer.
I already calibrated the monitor and uses the ambient light measuring and it said that i should set my kelvin monitor temp to 5800k so i set it to 5800 and then go profiling my printer epson pro 4000. after printing the 700+ patches that will be read via mouse color scanner I scanned it 1 by 1 and finished scanning the pattern. Then i opened a file in photoshop and print the image. I turned off the ICM and set it at let photoshop determined the color and uses the printer profile i created a while ago.. the ouput image printed by printer is much lighter than the monitor. Is there something wrong with my calibration? how can i correct it? I'm so excited to see the result of the monitor and printer that's well calibrated. TIA :)

up

hello just got spyder3 studio version.
I have a little problem calibrating my monitor and printer.
I already calibrated the monitor and uses the ambient light measuring and it said that i should set my kelvin monitor temp to 5800k so i set it to 5800 and when measuring the gray colors it displayed some kind of a message that my white point( i dont exactle remember the message) is lesser than the targer range like 200 something. then go profiling my printer epson pro 4000. after printing the 700+ patches that will be read via mouse color scanner I scanned it 1 by 1 and finished scanning the pattern. Then i opened a file in photoshop and print the image. I turned off the ICM and set it at let photoshop determined the color and uses the printer profile i created a while ago.. the ouput image printed by printer is much lighter than the monitor. Is there something wrong with my calibration? how can i correct it? I'm so excited to see the result of the monitor and printer that's well calibrated. TIA :)

Was the same rendering intent used for both softproofing and printing?

Could you perhaps have selected Relative Colorimetric for softproofing but selected Perceptual for printing?

Cheers!

Jo Avila

up

hello just got spyder3 studio version.
I have a little problem calibrating my monitor and printer.
I already calibrated the monitor and uses the ambient light measuring and it said that i should set my kelvin monitor temp to 5800k so i set it to 5800 and when measuring the gray colors it displayed some kind of a message that my white point( i dont exactle remember the message) is lesser than the targer range like 200 something. then go profiling my printer epson pro 4000. after printing the 700+ patches that will be read via mouse color scanner I scanned it 1 by 1 and finished scanning the pattern. Then i opened a file in photoshop and print the image. I turned off the ICM and set it at let photoshop determined the color and uses the printer profile i created a while ago.. the ouput image printed by printer is much lighter than the monitor. Is there something wrong with my calibration? how can i correct it? I'm so excited to see the result of the monitor and printer that's well calibrated. TIA :)

Was the same rendering intent used for both softproofing and printing?

Could you perhaps have selected Relative Colorimetric for softproofing but selected Perceptual for printing?

Cheers!

Jo Avila

I selected the perceptual for printing (in print spyder3print).. What should I be selecting? saturation? perceptual? etc., and should i check the box of softproof? what is softproof for?
thanks

Softproofing is a Photoshop feature that allows the image on the screen to mimic how it will look once printed.

Using the Perceptual rendering intent will make the print brighter (even the image on the screen will appear brighter if you've turned on softproofing).

Cheers!

Jo Avila

Softproofing is a Photoshop feature that allows the image on the screen to mimic how it will look once printed.

Using the Perceptual rendering intent will make the print brighter (even the image on the screen will appear brighter if you've turned on softproofing).

Cheers!

Jo Avila

i see. what should be my setting?
Do i really have to take note of my ambient lighting?
because i think the 5800k is a bit warmer compared to 6500k, the pictures are becoming warmer also compared to 6500k.

and also i have 3 computers that needed to be calibrated but only one printer is in my network(epson pro 4000). I printed large spread patch 700+ that will be read via mouse color. the question is do i really have to print the same large patches for the remaining computers as well? or printing one spread patch is enough and i will just read the patch for every computers.

i see. what should be my setting?
Do i really have to take note of my ambient lighting?
because i think the 5800k is a bit warmer compared to 6500k, the pictures are becoming warmer also compared to 6500k.

You might want to alter your whitepoint setting depending on the ambient light that is present in your work environment.

Besides, there is a good chance that your display is bluish. A correct whitepoint setting would look yellow only because you've been looking at a bluish monitor for a very long time :D

The strength of the ambient light would also dictate how bright or dim your display monitor should be.

Your choice of rendering intents is usually a matter of taste (i.e. dependent on the image, printer and paper). My usual choices are either Perceptual or Relative Colorimetric. You should see the difference between the two in Photoshop during soft proofing.

In Photoshop, go to View>Proof Setup>Custom and select the color profile for your printer and paper of choice. Make sure the Preview checkbox is checked. Choose either Perceptual or Relative Colorimetric. Choose whatever rendering intent gives you the most pleasing results. I usually have softproofing turned on while I am editing the image.

However, you are using the PrintFix Pro from ColorVision. I was told that the profiles created by the PrintFix was optimized for the Saturation rendering intent :D I sometimes use the Saturation rendering intent for the profiles that I have created with my PrintFix spectrocolorimeter. But I still sometimes use either Perceptual or Relative Colorimetric :D

HTH.

Cheers!

Jo Avila

and also i have 3 computers that needed to be calibrated but only one printer is in my network(epson pro 4000). I printed large spread patch 700+ that will be read via mouse color. the question is do i really have to print the same large patches for the remaining computers as well? or printing one spread patch is enough and i will just read the patch for every computers.

You're only profiling the printer output.

You would only need to create a single printer profile to be used by all three computers.

But you would have to calibrate and profile each display monitor for all three computers.

Cheers!

Jo Avila

wow thank you. i will definitely try that tomorrow.

How about the gray pattern patches?
do i really have to print and read that patches? or just the colored patches is enough?
Thank you for explaining it very well.. I'll report ASAP.
thanks
-nikki

I would only use the extended grays if I print a lot of black & white and if my inkjet printer has at least three black inks used for mono inkjet printing. :D

Cheers!

Jo Avila

hello sir jo I'm back. I already calibrated the 2 monitors and 1 printer(epson pro 4000) and the output are similar to my monitor, but im having some problem with my another monitor on epson pro 4000, i already calibrated it but the color is not similar in my monitor. I disabled the ambient light measurement for this one monitor because it's recommending to set it at 5800k which my other monitors are recommended to set it at 6500k. what is the reason why the other 2 monitors are recommended to set at 6500k while the other one is 5000k/5800k? do you think my ambient light is the problem? do you think putting a light will help to solve the problem?


also i already calibrated the canon IP5200 on the two pc's that's already calibrated with my epson pro 4000, now i made another profile for canon IP5200, and read the 200+ patches, then all set, now i printed some pictures but its now similar in my monitor. it's not well calibrated. what do you think sir is the reason?
thank you very much sir. :)

Are all three monitors in the same location? Or the monitors are in different locations with different ambient light sources?

Low ambient lighting levels is sometimes preferred in some situations.

All monitors are unique. All video cards send a unique signal to the display.

BTW, what's the monitor that you are having a problem with? The Spyder will just help you calibrate and profile your display? Did you warm up the display for the minimum recommended amount of time? How is this the display? Age is a factor that affects a display's stability.

I don't understand your problem regarding your display and your iP5200. Could you please restate it? However, I do have to ask if you waited for at least 10 minutes before you profiled the color patch targets from the iP5200. In my experience, prints from a Canon printer need at least 10 minutes of dry down time before the colors become stable :D

Cheers!

Jo Avila

Are all three monitors in the same location? Or the monitors are in different locations with different ambient light sources?

-- yes they are in the same location, but the light is in the ceiling left side and the other side have no light.



BTW, what's the monitor that you are having a problem with? The Spyder will just help you calibrate and profile your display? Did you warm up the display for the minimum recommended amount of time? How is this the display? Age is a factor that affects a display's stability.

-- i warmed up the display for 30-40 minutes.
-- the two monitors that are already calibrated a bit oldie like 1yr old. and the one that im not satisfied with the calibration is 5months old.




I don't understand your problem regarding your display and your iP5200. Could you please restate it? However, I do have to ask if you waited for at least 10 minutes before you profiled the color patch targets from the iP5200. In my experience, prints from a Canon printer need at least 10 minutes of dry down time before the colors become stable

-- after i calibrated the pc for epson pro 4000, I created a new profile for IP5200 and read the patches, and it was all set. then i printed some image and the output is not similar in my monitor. I let it dry for about 5-10 mins,. I will try to read patches again to make sure its well and dried.

Ambient light could be a factor. Or there could be also something about the display that makes the Spyder software recommend a particular whitepoint setting.

There are some displays that aren't stable no matter how well you calibrate and profile them.

Print a new set of color patches. Let them dry a bit longer. It's sometimes not possible to get profiling right the first time.

BTW, you aren't calibrating your printer for your computer. You are profiling the printer's output. :D

HTH!

Cheers!

Jo Avila

Ambient light could be a factor. Or there could be also something about the display that makes the Spyder software recommend a particular whitepoint setting.

There are some displays that aren't stable no matter how well you calibrate and profile them.

Print a new set of color patches. Let them dry a bit longer. It's sometimes not possible to get profiling right the first time.

BTW, you aren't calibrating your printer for your computer. You are profiling the printer's output. :D

HTH!

Cheers!

Jo Avila

ok thanks, I will try first to make ambient light consistent and will try calibrating again. thanks jo, thank you very much:)

How do we manage the ambient light ? It seems difficult to find a 5000K fluorescent lamp here in the philippines. Majority that are sold are 6400K. any particular brand & where can we get locally ? Thanks ...

I don't even edit with daylight balanced flourescent lamps. However, you might want to ask Louie Aguinaldo of DPI where they sourced their lamps :D

Cheers!

Jo Avila

I don't even edit with daylight balanced flourescent lamps. However, you might want to ask Louie Aguinaldo of DPI where they sourced their lamps :D

Cheers!

Jo Avila


So .... Jo , What ambient light do use ? Where do you edit your photos in environment ? Thanks ... :)

I usually edit in my studio. But not all the lights in my studio are lit. I try to ensure as much as possible that there is no light source directly hitting my display.

Cheers!

Jo Avila

@ Jo .... You mean indirect lighting ? I tried changing light from Cool light to Day light where do the edit & printing. Still trying to figure out the difference ... :) Before I play with my Photo-rag paper & ink. ha ha ha

cheers !

I bought 6500k light. I will see how it will change the kelvin temperature in my monitor.

Sir Jo do you think putting an 6500k light will change the ambient light setting recommendation in the print calibration software. thanks.
-nikki